Tosamaidan Greater Lakes Trek

Distance: 42 kms drive

Duration: 3-4 hours

Like all treks in Kashmir, we spend our first day reaching the base camp from Srinagar. Drung is located at a distance of 42 km from Srinagar. If you have signed up for a drive with Bikat, the vehicle will pick us up at 1:30 P.M. at Dal Lake. In the event that you have made your own arrangements to reach Drung, this article will be helpful (click here).

The drive starts from Dal Lake and takes us through the bylanes of Srinagar, to end up on the highway towards Gulmarg. Although a short drive, we get to witness Kashmiri culture as we pass by local markets and lush green fields. The hustle and bustle of Srinagar and its outskirts slowly fades to make way for the mountains and the cool breeze, giving you a taste of what’s to come.

We stop for lunch at a restaurant on the highway. Treat yourself to some local cuisine and fuel up for the remainder of the drive! 

The drive slowly ascends and you notice a mild temperature drop with mountains taking over the landscape. At Tangmarg, the road diverts and we drive through alpine trees on either side. A 15 minute drive from the diversion takes us to the starting point of our trek, which is located a little above the renowned Drung Waterfall. 

Once at the campsite, we can unload and relax with some tea and snacks. Once all the participants have been gathered, the trek leaders will do a briefing session to give us an idea about the trek, what our schedule will be like and what we can expect the next few days. 

A freshly prepared dinner will be served and we can then take rest to prepare for the big day to come!

Distance: 10 kms

Duration: 6 hours

Before we start the trek today, we are taught how to pack our tents in order to be more self-sufficient during the trek. With our packed lunch, refreshments and lots of excitement, we begin our trek at 9:00 A.M. after a sumptuous breakfast! The trail quickly takes us into a coniferous forest with a gradual ascent. The initial parts are not very dense and keep moving into patches of meadows and then back into the forest. The views of the towering trees are a sight to see and if you are someone who is curious about the types of plants and trees, do make sure to chat up our guides who will have an answer to all your questions!

Around 2 hours into the trek, the forest grows denser as you gain some altitude. The trail from here becomes steep. The steep ascent through the forest takes around 1-1.5 hours to complete. Anywhere you choose to look, you will be delighted by the sight of greenery and the forest that surrounds you, making you forget the ascent. 

At the end of the ascent, the scenery opens up into vast valleys and meadows as you walk past the house of a shepherd. We stop here to refill our bottles. A short climb from here is the spot where we will take a break for lunch. Absorb the views as we relish our packed lunch after that long ascent. 

We continue on the trail, which completely changes in terms of the terrain. We are now trekking across wide meadows that open up into even wider ones. This part of the trail is relatively easy as we go up and down over lush green meadows. 

Dhanwas is finally in sight after 2 hours of meadow strolls. The climb down to the campsite is a fun filled one as we come across a few local children who visit from the nearby hamlet to say hello!

Once at the campsite, feast on some hot snacks and tea and watch the sunset over the mountains. You will see that you are surrounded by meadows and coniferous forests not too far from you. 

Hot dinner will be served after which we can retire for the day and get all the rest needed for Day 3!

Distance: 7 kms

Duration: 4-5 hours

Now that we know how to pack our tents, we roll them up and keep them ready for the porters. We start off today at 9:00 A.M. after hot tea and breakfast. The trail initially leads into a coniferous forest with a gradual ascent. It then opens up into meadows that give you views of snow-capped mountains on a clear day. For the next 2 hours, the trail is a meadow walk with a few ascents here and there. Today, we truly feel like we have come really deep into Kashmir and are thoroughly experiencing its beauty.  

The trail then steadily goes by a water canal, made by the locals to divert water for their uses. This part is entirely flat and can be completed with ease. 

We break for lunch by the canal and continue our trail for another half an hour. If the shepherds have got their herd out to graze, you will witness hundreds of sheep gathered just a little before the campsite. We take a short break here to enjoy the herd before we move on to arrive at the campsite.

At the campsite you will note that the treeline has ended and you are witnessing a greyer terrain compared to the previous site. With ample time on our hands we relax and get ready for the bonfire! We spend the evening around the fire, warming ourselves up, listening to stories and experiences of fellow trekkers. 

Dinner will follow after which we get all the rest needed for a long day that is ahead of us.

Distance: 10 kms

Duration: 5 hours

Today, we gear up to trek all the way to Tosa Maidan. The first 3 hours of the trail involves a gradual ascent through meadows and pink flower beds which is followed by half an hour of steep ascent. The flower beds are an absolutely beautiful sight, offering a contrast to the green meadows below. 

Once at the top, we break for lunch and fill ourselves for the descent. The trail is easy from here all the way to Tosa Maidan. A few easy boulder crossings and you see the scenery open up into what is easily one of the largest meadows in Kashmir. 

On your way down, you will notice macro plants shaped like flowers and will also come across the famous pashmina goats. With the trail being easy, we have more time to break and enjoy the scenery to the fullest.

The Tosa Maidan campsite is one of the best during the entire trek. We camp next to a crystal clear stream, surrounded by views of meadows that remind us of perfect wallpaper landscapes. 

We treat ourselves to ample food before we retire for the night.

Distance: 10 kms

Duration: 6-7 hours

Be sure to have a heavy breakfast today as we have a long climb ahead of us. Although gradual, most part of today’s trail is an uphill climb before we descend all the way down to Noonwan, where there is a bit of boulder crossing that we will encounter. 

Noonwan is a magnificent campsite right next to a lake. You will see some of the prettiest sunsets from here and the guides will also tell you that the lake is actually an extension from the Godsar Lake that you will see tomorrow!

Explore around Noonwan or sit back and enjoy the sunset with some snacks. Tomorrow will be challenging and it is the day we see the Greater Lakes of Kashmir, so it is recommended you get as much rest as possible.

Distance: 10-12 kms

Duration: 6-7 hours

We have trekked far and long to finally see the Greater Lakes today! We leave early after breakfast to cover four lakes around Noonwan. These lakes make it worth the wait and are a delight to see. They are surrounded by mountains with remnants of snow and the deep blue skies making them picture perfect. 

Each lake, locally referred to as Neelsar, Dhamamsar, Bhansar and Godsar,  are different in their own way, and we cannot help but spend some time at each of them, absorbing the beauty that is before us. Godsar is the biggest and the most beautiful of them all. As beautiful as these lakes are, reaching them involves some boulder crossing which could be challenging. But you know what they say, the best views come after a hard climb! 

We return a little past lunch and have the entire evening to enjoy the campsite, sunsets and spend time with our fellow trekkers on our last evening together.

Distance: 10 kms (trek) + 45 kms (drive)

Duration: 5 hours (trek) + 3 hours (drive)

Today is the last day of our trek and we make our way back to Tosa Maidan to reach the final point. We take a few group pictures as memories and start off on the last leg of the trek. We follow the same trail we took to reach Noonwan. A gradual ascent for half an hour and then we descend all the way to Tosa Maidan. Soak in the sight of the vast meadows of Kashmir one last time before the trek ends. 

Towards the end of the trek, there is a steep ascent to reach the final point from where we will be picked up and driven to Srinagar. This ascent could prove to be slightly tricky so it is advisable that you stay with the trek leaders and guides. Once at the top, there are small establishments providing snacks and food. We spend some time grabbing a few bites before our long ride to Kashmir.

The road for the first 45 minutes to 1 hour is a beaten path and the ride is a bumpy one. We drive through small towns and villages before we merge onto the Srinagar road. You will be dropped off at Dal Lake around late afternoon (4PM-5PM) where we say our goodbyes and make our onward journeys with long lasting memories of endless meadows, glacial lakes and the wonderful people of Kashmir.