Har ki Dun Trek

The journey begins from the capital city of Dehradun. If you have opted for transportation by Bikat Adventures, please ensure you board your vehicle from ISBT Dehradun latest by 7 AM. If you are traveling on your own to Sankri, this article could come in handy in planning your trip.

Sankri is located at a distance of 197 km from Dehradun and would take about 9-10 hours to cover, gaining an altitude of 1950 m. The drive will take you through the spectacular hills of Mussoorie and the renowned Kempty falls. The roads here are long and winding and swift mountain streams run parallel to the roads in many sections.

After crossing Mussoorie, the landscape changes distinctly. Deep gorges are replaced by a canopy of blue pine forests that carry the fresh scent of the woods. The Yamuna River accompanies you constantly throughout.

The final stretch of 22 km to Sankri, however, steals the show as we will be driving through the infamous Govind National Park that is home to a plethora of exotic flora and fauna. The roads can be rough and bumpy in some sections but the breathtaking views of the dense conifer forests, Tons river valley and scattered apple orchids will more than make up for it.

Expect to reach Sankri by 5 PM in the evening. Sankri is a lush green village that hosts some unparalleled views of Mt. Swargarohini, especially during sunset time. During peak winter season, that is December to February, you will encounter snow right from Sankri itself.

The stay today will be in guest houses. After check-in, trekkers can freshen up and explore the surrounding areas.

There is a motor-able road stretching over 12 km that connects Sankri to Taluka. We start at 8 AM and drive through a forest road flanked by Deodar and Bamboo trees. Streams of clear water swerving down the hills accompany you throughout this stretch. The drive is a delight for all nature lovers as you will be able to spot rare Himalayan birds like the Himalayan Raven, Red-Billed Blue Magpie, and Himalayan Bulbul.

It takes an hour to reach Taluka. Taluka is a small picturesque hamlet with a cluster of concrete houses and a couple of government guest houses. The gushing Supin River flowing across the village dominates the landscape.

After a short break of refreshments, we begin the 9 km trek towards Pauni Garaat. The trek commences on an uneven stony trail that runs out of the village. A few minutes into the trek, the trail expands into an open land and you will find yourself walking along the banks of the Supin River.

Eventually, the trail translates into a level walk through dense lush conifers where you spot the first cemented bridge running over a small gentle stream. After about 20 minutes, you will come across another wooden bridge over a stream. You can fill your water bottles here.

The hike is quite pleasant throughout as you will be walking under the shade of Walnut, Pine and Cedar trees accompanied by the sound of the flowing river. You might even find walnuts on the ground in autumn. The gradient of the trail is easy mostly with gradual ascents. You will often see mule-traffic along the way accompanied by locals carrying heavy loads on their backs in preparation for the long winters.

A couple of hours into the trek, you will see the small village of Gangar on the other side of the river. Small wooden shops serving tea and snacks dot the landscape. We will be taking a quick halt here to have our packed lunches.

The trail out of the Gangar village runs along the right hand side of the river. Fields of Potato and Maize can be spotted along the way.  The campsite for the day, Pauni Garaat, is situated in a vast clearing enroute. The actual village of Pauni Garaat, however, is located on the other side of the river.

After setting up camps and freshening up, take some time to explore the area around the campsite. Have a hot dinner and tuck in early to get ample rest for the next day.

The day begins with a short session of yoga and stretching to pump up for the trek ahead. Post breakfast, we commence the 8 km long trek to Kalkattiyadhaar. The trail runs through a thicket of towering forests culminating in the village of Seema. It is marked by a sparse cluster of concrete structures and a forest department guest house set on the banks of the Supin River. The Osla village is located on the other side of the river, at a slightly higher elevation of about a hundred metres.

Next to the village of Seema lies the infamous Seema Bridge, a large hanging bridge running across the Supin River with a backdrop of colossal mountain ranges. The jewel-blue Supin River can be seen sparkling as it winds its merry way through the boulders.

Once you cross the bridge, get ready for a steep climb all the way up to the point where we meet the trail coming out of Osla. Expansive farms, mostly growing Amaranth, dominate the landscape here. You will find villagers working in the farms. During monsoon, the amaranth takes on a deep reddish hue adding a striking contrast to the scenery. After half an hour, the trail opens up to grand snow-capped views of the Banderpoonch and Swargarohini ranges.

The trail gradually climbs higher beyond this point passing by a variety of flowers like fleece and sunflowers. As we make our way past a couple of fields, the river Supin retreats from view far below. This stretch is blessed with some magnificent viewpoints of the Dhauladhar ranges.

The trail eventually culminates at a ridge locally named as Kalkattiyadhar. Our campsite, lays a short descent away from this ridge. Expect to reach the campsite by 1 PM in the afternoon.

The Kalkattiyadhar campsite is a beautiful open meadow set in an exquisite location. You will be able to spot some renowned peaks like the Buyal Devsu and Mt. Black Peak from here. You will also be able to see the Ruinsara Range running on the left and the Kedarkantha Summit on the right. Take a breather basking in the expansive views of the valley and the warm sun. This day being a short one gives ample time to the trekkers to acclimatize to the altitude and prepare for the summit.

Note: The forest department of Uttarakhand shuts the Har Ki Dun trek for visitors post December until mid March.

The summit day is the longest of all days as we will be covering a distance of about 14 km. Be prepared for an early start. We begin our hike at 6 AM post breakfast just as the sun rises. In December, the pristine white snow-blanket all around shines meekly as we trail through. Depending upon the density and rigidity of the snow, your trek leader may provide you with microspikes and gaiters for easy navigation.

The trail heading out of the campsite runs high above the convergence of the Supin River and the river from the Ruinsara valley. From this point onwards, sprawling views of the snow-clad peaks of Ruinsara valley (including Mt. Black peak) with the Har Ki Dun valley resting below take over the landscape. The trek gradient is moderate with a mixture of steep and gradual ascends.

The trail eventually leads you to a stretch with an incline of about 45 degrees. Although it is not steep, the section is likely to be covered in knee-deep snow making it a taxing ascent.

The last leg to the summit climbs side by side with the river through a dense forest before opening up to a clearing cradling some of the prominent peaks in the region. This is the Har Ki Dun Summit. From the summit, you will be able to see the open grounds below Swaragrohini-1 peak and also catch glimpses of Hata Peak and Black Peak covered in snow.

The valley has plenty to explore such as meadows full of alpine flowers, glacier moraines, coniferous forests, swift streams and the grand view of huge mountain ranges. You can explore the entire ground in about an hour or two and head back to Kalkattiyadhaar after lunch.

Wake up in time to catch a pleasing sunrise from the Kalkattiyadhaar campsite. The morning temperatures are quite low and can even drop to subzero levels in December. The journey back is fairly easy since the trail is mostly downhill. After having breakfast, we begin the trek by crossing the Har Ki Dun Bridge and continue the gentle descent downstream. From there, ascend up to the Kalkattiyadhaar and descent gradually till Pauni Garaat.

Since the trek is not very long today, we will explore the quaint village of Osla along the way. The village, spread along a mountain slope, has several double storied wooden houses with slant roofs. There is a charming Someshwar temple dedicated to Lord Shiva with beautiful and detailed carvings on the walls here. If time permits, you may also spend some time talking to the locals who are always happy to see trekkers. We will then head back to Pauni Garaat over the downward trail and spend the night there.

After breakfast, we begin our descent to Taluka retracing the same path we came through. The trek runs through thick forests of Chir Pine, various ferns and flowering trees making up for a beautiful trail. Beware of “bichu ghaas” growing along the sides of the trail. Even a gentle touch of the plant can leave you with a stinging sensation for about 25 minutes. Don’t worry though, the herb is not poisonous and is in fact cooked by locals as a vegetable.

Since we will be descending throughout today, be careful not to exert too much pressure on your knees while walking. Trekking poles can come in handy for this stretch.

A couple of hours into the trail, you will find yourself walking alongside the waters of the Supin River. The final stretch to Taluka is over a cemented trail, at the end of which our vehicle will be ready to take you back to Sankri by road. We reach Sankri just in time to sit back, relax and reminisce on memories of the trek over a hot cup of tea.

After breakfast, savor the mesmerizing landscapes around as we prepare to checkout. We will be retracing the same roads that we drove through on the first day. Expect to reach Dehradun by 7-8 PM.

Note: To be on the safer side though, arrange your return journey expecting to be at the Dehradun Bus Stand at around 9 PM. This could help account for any delays we may run into along the way.