This was my first time in Kashmir. Having visited the other Himalayan states in India, Kashmir was always on the list and there was always something enigmatic about it. Something I couldn’t quite figure out. A place that was known to offer unparalleled beauty but also known for being rife with conflict. Let me say it right at the beginning, it turned out to be everything above and beyond I ever imagined it to be!
As a traveller, I always sought out places that took me to parts of the country that were not thronged by tourists and offered a rich cultural experience. When I was told that the Tosa Maidan and Greater Lakes trail is a new unexplored trek in Kashmir, I knew right away that I had to go on it. The trek checked all my boxes as it took me to Kashmir, and not just any part of Kashmir, a region that remains raw and untouched at its very core.
It was around Eid and the local markets of Kashmir were bustling with activity to gear up for the festivities ahead. There is nothing better that can offer a sneak-peek into the culture of a community than the local markets during festival time. I got lucky. As we drove through the cramped roads of Srinagar and the towns on its outskirts, I stared out of the window like a child with excitement, looking at the colours of pashmina fabric, the local food and paraphernalia necessary for the festival.
Having not found the time to eat lunch before the drive, I jumped with joy when the driver asked us if we were hungry. We stopped at a local restaurant to fill ourselves up. I knew what I wanted even before I looked at the menu. The Kashmiri rogan josh is known far & wide for its flavour and it just was not something I could miss! I feasted on the dish with some naan and rice and was prepared for more quintessential experiences coming my way the next one week.
Now everyone hears of the beauty of Sonmarg and Pahalgam in Kashmir, but have you heard of Drung? A quiet village nestled in the mountains near Gulmarg, Drung had me captivated right from the beginning. I thoroughly enjoyed camping here as it is frequented by locals from the village who come to interact with trekkers and share experiences. It is lovely to hear from them about their life in a small Kashmiri village that remains almost unknown to the rest of the world. I spent a majority of my evening this way along with enjoying the piping hot tea and snack of course. Food is something I always look forward to!
The food on the trek really took me by surprise. It had been a while since my last trek in the Himalayas and I was so delighted to see the variety of food that was offered! My favourite part being the dessert of course. The kitchen staff did an absolutely splendid job with what they made and one of their specialties is the khaddu ka tukda which is to die for! I wouldn’t be lying if I said I was distracted by the food and eagerly waited for it more than the landscape itself!
I immediately realized on Day 1 of the trek what all the hype around Kashmir’s beauty was about. I remember climbing through a steep section in the coniferous forests to arrive at sprawling meadows and mountains that greet you at the top and thinking “Now I know why they say Kashmir is heaven on earth”.
While I have been in the mountains before, I had never come across such wide lush green meadows that expand as far as the eye can see. The landscape was truly stunning and left me in awe of the region and made me wonder what lies beyond these meadows? Are there more meadows, or are there snow mountains, is there a hamlet? The meadows left me wondering.
The trail was steep in portions with a few boulder crossings but was largely a stroll through the ups and downs of Kashmir’s smoothened green meadows. I was greeted by herds of sheep, clear gushing streams and even colourful flower beds that made for a picture perfect landscape. So mesmerised by the meadows of Tosa Maidan I forgot that there were the Greater Lakes until our trek leader said “We will trek to see the lakes tomorrow”. My heart leaped with joy. To think that there was more to see!
I found the trek to the lakes a bit challenging with multiple boulder crossings. I cannot balance on my two legs to save my life! I would be crawling over the boulders on all fours while some others with better balance would be comfortably skipping over them! Crawling over them is an adventure in itself and a rewarding one at that when you see the glacial lakes nestled among the high mountains.
Throughout the trail, I made friends with fellow trekkers, the trek leaders, the extremely helpful and lovely guides and my absolute favourite, the kitchen staff. My birthday fell on the fifth day of the trek and I was a little disheartened since it had been raining the entire day and I could not hear from my parents and loved ones. Lakshman, one of the kitchen staff (who is also the most amazing cook) hiked with me to take me to a point where I could get full signal with 4G! I spoke to my parents and also received some really heartwarming messages from my friends. But that was not the best part. What I did not know was that Lakshman and the other staff prepared a lovely cake for me! Now we all know that while on a trek we do not have the ingredients or the equipment to prepare a cake. Geniuses that they were, they somehow managed to cook up one of the best cakes and really made my day. It wouldn’t be a stretch to say that it was a very special birthday for me. I enjoyed the rest of the evening with them and wholeheartedly thanked them for going out of their way to make my day special.
So not only did I trek into the most unexplored parts of Kashmir but also celebrated my birthday there! This trek will always have a special place in my heart for this reason as it is a reminder of how no matter the circumstances, a little love and kindness from people is all we need to thrive in this fast paced world.
