After I had the good fortune of starting the year 2024 by climbing Aconcagua (6,961M), the roof of South America, we, at Bikat Adventures asked our outdoor community if you had some gnawing questions about climbing this mountain that you needed answers to. We were excited to receive a ton of questions showing the massive interest of the community in this beautiful peak. I’ve tried to address some of the most common ones here in this article. I hope you find answers to what you were looking for, below :)
1. How long does it take to climb Aconcagua?
Short Answer: Mendoza to Mendoza: 18-20 days
Long Answer: This will depend on a range of factors like the route you choose, the kind of climb you want to do and how acclimatized you are before your climb. But a typical itinerary for the Normal Route (i.e. through the Horcones Valley) is about 18-20 days long. This is from Mendoza to Mendoza. Add the days of travel, which will be quite high especially if you are travelling from the Eastern end of the globe, and you come to roughly about 24-26 days. It may not be technically challenging but it IS a high mountain, almost 7000M, which makes it important to have enough rest days and enough days to acclimatize your body at each altitude, eventually making it a long climb.
The journey to the Base Camp itself is about 3-4 days as you cross Penitentes and Confluencia before reaching Plaza de Mulas (Base Camp). After the Base Camp, you will cross three high camps: Camp Canada, Nido de Condores and Camp Berlin on your way to the summit. Since it is a long climb, you must have enough spare/ reserve days since delays can be caused at any of these stop-points.
2. What kind of high-altitude experience do I need to climb Aconcagua?
Short Answer: At least two successful experiences of being on altitudes above 5,550M and one expedition reaching the heigh of 6,000M.
Long Answer: I would say if you only consider the technical difficulty of the mountain, you don’t really need any kind of specialized skills but as we all know, climbing a mountain is barely about putting one foot in front of the other for days on end – it is so much more than that, right? Aconcagua (6,261M) rises up to a really high elevation and that brings with it challenges of its own which require, not technical, but high-altitude skills like knowing how to read signs of distress in your body, carefully calculating the pace of your climb, being aware of what to pack based on the terrain and climate of the specific mountain, being able read the weather accurately and knowing your way around pitching tents, using sleeping bags, surviving without basic comforts for long periods of time etc etc etc. These are just some of a lot of things you need to have experience with. From that perspective, I would say you should have climbed at least to a height of 6000M before you attempt Aconcagua for it to be an enjoyable experience.
3. What kind of services are available on Aconcagua?
Short Answer: Everything you might need.
Long Answer: In my experience, the services on Aconcagua are some of the best I’ve come across. First of all, there are many formats in which you can avail services on Aconcagua – you can either book a fully guided expedition, or hire individual services as required by you. You get logistical packages which are customizable based on your need like porters, mules, stay & food at base camp, help with obtaining permits etc. I quite like this format because it sort of gives you more freedom and control over your climb which is a good way to transition from guided to self-supported climbs if you are looking to go that way. The food on the mountain is exceptional especially up till the base camp - Plaza de Mulas. You get three course meals three times a day, including desserts and you will definitely not eat anything twice no matter how long you are at the base camps. That is how diverse their menu is! The dry toilets are the cleanest I have personally encountered on any mountain with a specialized system which each climber diligently follows. There is a well-equipped medical tent at the base camp with doctors available around the clock, the rescue systems are well put in place and the entire route comes under the park rangers who are stationed at regular intervals overseeing the entire operation.
The processes on Aconcagua are well placed and very smooth which, in a way, takes the pressure off the climb itself.
4. Are permits required on Aconcagua?
Short Answer: Yes
Long Answer: The mountain falls under the Aconcagua Provincial Park. They issue two types of climbing permits: climbers who are not buying any service from the Park’s licensed outfitters pay USD 1300 as permit fee for the Normal Route. If you hire any small service from a licensed company, the cost comes down considerably – you pay close to 800 USD per climber instead of 1300. Also, there are further discounts if you make a booking before July for your climb in the high season which is Dec to Feb.
5. How much would it cost me to climb Aconcagua?
Short Answer: Between 6-8 lakhs
Long Answer: This will largely depend on factors like whether you are doing a guided or an unguided climb, which insurance you choose to buy, what services you hire and where you are coming from. For me, the highest cost was flight tickets since I was travelling from India which is all the way on the other side of the globe. The travel amounted to 25-30% of my total expense. Another major expense is the permit – the cost of this varies depending on which route you pick (the normal route permit charges are the cheapest) and whether you hire a local company for services (this reduces the cost of the permit considerably). Which season you choose to climb in also changes the cost of the permit and other services. Everything is much cheaper in Low Season as against the High Season but your chances of summitting the mountain also reduce considerably too.
Here’s how the seasons are divided on Aconcagua:
Low season: November 15 to November 30, and February 21 to March 31
Mid-season: December 1 to December 14, and February 1 to February 20
High season: December 15 to January 31
6. Is it possible to climb Aconcagua without a guide?
Short Answer: Yes, but you might want to read the long answer for this one.
Long Answer: Okay, this is kind of a complex answer. As far as permissions are concerned, there are no restrictions on solo or unguided climbers. For example, the managing authorities on Kilimanjaro mandate climbing with a local guide, the Aconcagua Provincial Park authorities enforce no such mandates on trekking or climbing in the region. From that perspective, it is fully possible to climb Aconcagua on your own.
However, it is important to remember that climbing in the Andes is much different from climbing in the Himalayas, demands different skills and as non-technical as the Normal Route may be, Aconcagua is still very high which makes it a challenging mountain to climb. Some sections of the climb like the Traverse towards the end of the route are not safe to cross alone. There are also other challenges like the loose terrain of the mountain, high winds, extreme cold, procurement of water for food and drinking needs and the list goes on.
There are many climbers who attempt this mountain on their own, but whether you possess the skill set and experience to do so is a question you will best be able to answer for yourself.
7. Aconcagua can be climbed through how many different routes?
Short Answer: Mainly, three.
Long Answer: Aconcagua can be approached from 2 separate valleys: Horcones Valley and Vacas Valley. Based on your starting point, there are three main routes to get to the top of the Andes Mountains:
a) The Normal Route which goes through the Horcones Valley and is a straight route (meaning it goes and comes back the same way). This is the most commonly used route and hence relatively more crowded than the other route.
b) The Polish Glacier Route which gets technical towards the end. It goes through the Vacas Valley and is a straight route too (meaning it goes and comes back the same way). This route is the best for those who want to make this difficult mountain even more challenging to climb by adding technical sections on your way to the top. The technical sections being a 1000M glacier wall with an approximate 50-60 degree slope towards the end of the climb i.e. above 6000M!
c) The Polish Traverse Route: This one is a circuit route – you start climbing from the Vacas Valley. We surpass the technical section of the Polish Glacier Route and traverse through the mountain to join the Normal Route. The climb back down is through the Horcones Valley i.e. we use the Normal Route for descent. This one is the most interesting route (if you want to do a non-technical climb) as it gives you a 360-degree tour of the mountain. However, this one ends up being a little bit longer in duration.
8. Is it a technical climb?
Short Answer: If you are taking the Normal Route, no.
Long Answer: The Normal Route which goes through the Horcones Valley is the easiest route to get to the roof of South America. It is also non-technical. Having said that, the climb does require previous experience of high-altitude mountains and a fair knowledge of mountaineering equipment and techniques for a safe climb. It is a strenuous climb and requires the use of some mountaineering equipment and an ability to adapt to a distinct climate. The challenges of this mountain are unique and must not be underestimated.
9. What all is involved in planning a self-guided ascent on Aconcagua?
Short Answer: A LOT!
Long Answer: Basically everything: from travel to hotels to food to gear, routes, communication, insurance, self-reliance in emergencies – everything. It will, undoubtedly, be much cheaper to go on your own but do consider your skills, training, medical expertise and experience when making a decision to avoid running into any unpleasant circumstances. Accounting for your level of training and ability to get yourself out of a sticky situation whilst battling the fatigue from the climb itself, are factors to consider.
10. What is the weather like on Aconcagua?
Short Answer: Brutally cold, windy and dry.
Long Answer: I have climbed a fair bit in the Himalayas - personally, I have never seen a mountain that is dry as a bone with no snow all the way up to its crown which is 6,961M. No snow at that height, that’s absurd, right? Just something you can expect in the Andes. In fact, it is so dry, that water is one of the biggest challenges on the mountain even in higher camps.
And the other thing is winds – the speed, the intensity, the throw - all of it is absolutely brutal. Walking on Aconcagua was like crossing the ancient trans-Saharan trade route – 100kmph winds and sandstorms are everyday events here. Getting blown off the mountain and swallowing 15 kgs of dust each day feature on the top of my list of challenges I faced on this mountain.
11. How easy is it to get a Visa for Argentia to climb Aconcagua?
Short Answer: Fairly easy once you know the process.
Long Answer: The Argentina Visa process is directly managed by the Embassy of Argentina in India; no third-party organisations like VFS are authorised to mediate the procedure. You will get all the information you need here, but if this is confusing to understand, we have written a step-by-step instructional Guide to Getting a Visa for Argentina (add link to article) which might be helpful.
12. What is the best time to climb Aconcagua?
Short Answer: November to March
Long Answer: This is actually really interesting because the dry season, which is the best season to climb Aconcagua, is from Mid-November to Mid-March which is usually off-season in the Himalayas especially for climbing. So, if you are someone who is itching to find a perfect climb towards the Christmas/New Year breaktime, this is a perfect bet because you are not going to get any expeditions in the Himalayas during this time.
This 4-month time period is further divided into High Season and Low Season. You end up paying a lesser permit fee during the low season.
13. How difficult is it to climb the highest mountain of South America?
Short Answer: We’d rate it a level 7 on the BRS scale.
Long Answer: As I see it, the mountain is not technically challenging, and I am speaking solely of the Normal Route which is one of the three routes you can take to reach the top most point of South America, BUT there are a few challenges which are unique to climbing this mountain which puts the success rate for this peak at just a little over 30%. Some of the most challenging things about climbing Aconcagua from my experience were
a) The endlessly long distances between some sections on the mountain
b) The excruciatingly long summit push where the elevation gain is a 1000M and would take you a minimum of 12-16 hours
c) The high winds of the Andes which can be quite menacing
d) The biting cold of this region combined with its altitude which adds all kinds of complexities to the climb and
e) The lack of snow which makes arranging for water really difficult.
If you look at difficulty from this perspective, it is quite a painful mountain to climb and one that requires careful planning; its high level of unpredictability can get very uncomfortable.
14. Is there any literature I can read before climbing Aconcagua?
Short Answer: Yes, loads!
Long Answer: This question is my personal favourite, well, because I am quite a nerd when it comes to mountain literature. Although I read a lot of blogposts about individual experiences and gathered information just generally scouring through the internet in the planning stages of my climb, the two books which I found extremely useful were:
a) Aconcagua: Summit of South America by Harry Kikstra – this pocket-sized guide does a brilliant job of mapping out the entire route highlighting the difficult patches between all camps with specificity and in a lot of detail. It also gives you a thorough packing list and information on the terrain and climate of Aconcagua as well as the Andes in general. It is an extremely useful book to read and one that is easy to carry even on your climb.
b) The other one I loved reading, and this one in particular if you are a fan of getting your information in a story format like me, was: The Highest Andes by E.A Fitz Gerald – this may not be directly useful for your climb but it is a story about the first successful ascent of Aconcagua in 1897 by a European team. Even though a lot of the conditions on the climb itself may have changed now simply as a function of time, much of the feeling of climbing this mountain remains relatable – it was at least for me and that was an interesting find.
If you come across any more literature which you’ve found interesting on Aconcagua, do let me know because I would love to read more :)
15. How is climbing in the Andes different from climbing in the Himalayas?
Short Answer: It is worlds apart – geographically and experientially.
Long Answer: It’s quite different I’d say in the sense that the terrain of the Andes is distinct – it’s all brown. While we have mountains in the Himalayas which are all loose rock and scree like for example CB13 or Pangarchulla, but I haven’t ever climbed a mountain in the Himalayas which is all loose scree all the way up to 6960M with no sign of snow but still is so cold that it can give you frostbite in 10 minutes of being out in the high wind and cold of the mountain. It is pretty fascinating. The weather is really dry and so is the wind, of course. These factors in themselves make the climb really different because if I speak from my experience, I realized that everything I had learnt from climbing in my home country sort of didn’t apply here. I had to build my strategy very differently for this climb – and it’s quite crazy to realize that no matter how much information you go armed with in a new region, there are some things you will only learn about the place from first-hand experience.
16. Why should I climb Aconcagua?
Short Answer: Because IT IS ABSOLUTELY WORTH IT!
Long Answer: Well, as part of the most obvious response, Aconcagua holds a lot of prestigious titles like the highest mountain in South America which makes it part of the Seven Summits Challenge, the highest outside of the Himalayan range which makes it the highest mountain outside Asia and many other titles, for me it is interesting to climb in different mountain ranges
a) Because climbing in different geographical conditions and varied terrains adds to the skillset, you get a sense of how the sport itself is perceived in different countries which is reflected in the mountain culture, the organization of the climb, the way in which services are offered on the mountain and the ease of these services allowing different sports like trail running, traditional climbing, speed climbing etc possible in some regions and not in others.
b) It is interesting to engage with the ecosystem as a whole to get exposed to a lot of new ways of climbing by the way of interacting with a new environment and a new set of people and also to understand how regional cultures interact with a global sport to make climbing in every new country a very different experience.
I hope I was able to answer some of pressing questions you might have had about climbing Aconcagua. If I have missed something or if there’s anything else I can help you with, please leave a comment below and I will get back to you as soon as possible.
